############### \u003cdiv class="rich_media_content autoTypeSetting24psection"\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); letter-spacing: 0.544px; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; text-align: center; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="image-box"\u003e\u003c!--IMG_0--\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); letter-spacing: 0.544px; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; text-align: center; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; text-align: right; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e 撰文｜尹   凯\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; text-align: right; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e  编辑｜龚   正\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; text-align: right; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e\u003cbr/\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; text-align: right; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e2020年播出的电视剧《三十而已》中，王漫妮返回老家县城后，连一杯手磨咖啡都喝不到，溢出屏幕的嫌弃感，让准备返乡的年轻人望而却步。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e如今，县城的商业门面早已天翻地覆。瑞幸、奈雪、蜜雪冰城纷纷下沉。尾随这些大牌其后的，是各种将一线城市业态复制到县城的区域连锁品牌，包括轻食店、火锅店、零食店等。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e低配版的它们，一方面让县城青年吃上了健身餐、喝上了精酿啤酒，过上了能对标一线的“精品级县城生活”，但另一方面，县城并不大的消费容量，叠加以加盟为盈利模式的部分品牌，也为返乡创业的青年，挖好了一个个的坑。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e\u003cbr/\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; line-height: 1.75em; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 20px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(198, 102, 39)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e#01\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; line-height: 1.75em; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 20px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(198, 102, 39)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e精品县城生活：大城市业态的低配版复制\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e北漂七年的夏天今年5月回到了老家平顶山——一个GDP 只有2700多亿的地级城市，她给自己留出了一年时间做自媒体创业，虽然不稳定，但幸福感暴增。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e以前，她在北京每月花4300元只能租到一间30平小公寓，但在老家花800元就租到了80平的两室一厅，养的猫也由一只变为了两只。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e夏天最大的爱好就是喝酒。在北京时，她经常约上三五好友去东五环外常营地区的五德酒场推杯换盏，那里人均客单价106元/人，一个亨利爵士金酒汤力水套餐，团购价就要573元。每次夏天都要花费五六百元左右请客，虽然朋友间轮流付钱，但也是笔不小的开销。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c!--MID_AD_0--\u003e\u003c!--EOP_0--\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c!--MID_ARTICLE_AD_0--\u003e\u003c!--PARAGRAPH_0--\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e回到老家，夏天爱上的是老家街上的贰麻酒馆，一个2014年创立于成都的酒吧品牌。在美团上，平顶山的贰麻酒馆，24瓶\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_0--\u003e纯生啤酒\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_0--\u003e正在做活动，29.9元就可以喝到饱。而3-4人的精酿套餐也只要134元。整个店的客单价只要32元，性价比拉满。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; text-align: right" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c!--IMG_1--\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 12px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(178, 178, 178)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e图 | 贰麻酒馆，氛围感也不弱\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e贰麻酒馆官网称，目前开了5家直营店，有近200家加盟店，其中以二三线城市居多。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e对夏天而言，贰麻酒馆实现了对五德的平替，每次来这喝酒只需要花200多元。“我和朋友每次差不多要喝10瓶1664，说实话，这种品牌的\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_1--\u003e精酿啤酒\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_1--\u003e口感没什么差别，老家还更便宜。”在她眼里，灯光营造出的迷离氛围感和大首都也大差不差。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e喝酒之外，\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_2--\u003e海底捞\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_2--\u003e、\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_3--\u003e瑞幸咖啡\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_3--\u003e、\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_4--\u003e星巴克\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_4--\u003e等也相继开进了夏天的老家。以前，夏天只能网购咖啡，自己冲泡。这下，平顶山也有了自己的“第三生活空间”。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e和夏天一样，今年暑假，从北京回到陕西洋县的肖敏，也被这里的县城街头震惊了一下。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e在这个GDP刚210亿出头的地方，迈德思客汉堡炸鸡、舒克小酒馆、九公子精酿酒屋、张掌门冒烤鸭、幺妹时尚三元火锅等店，在县中心的主干道上一字排开，彻底改变了县城从前小散乱商业业态的门面气质。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e肖敏上网查了一下，发现有好几个都是区域连锁品牌，它们的市场多瞄向本地、周边以及下沉市场。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e比如，迈德思客就是一家于2007年创立于西安的“本土西式快餐品牌”，产品与华莱士类似，品牌加盟费用根据城市级别，从18-25万元不等。张掌门冒烤鸭始于成都，商标注册于2017年，加盟费用也从几万到20万左右。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; text-align: right" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c!--IMG_2--\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 12px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(178, 178, 178)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e图 | 县城里的迈德思客\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e肖敏的一位本地同龄人告诉他，家里小孩看电影前后，都喜欢来迈德思客吃一下汉堡炸鸡。与北京\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_5--\u003e麦当劳\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_5--\u003e一个汉堡平均19.9元起步相比，这家店一个包含了鸡腿堡、小份薯条、3块鸡块、一杯中杯可乐在内的套餐，平台折扣价只要21.9元。“内容都是那些内容，价格却不是那个价格。”\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c!--MID_AD_1--\u003e\u003c!--EOP_1--\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c!--MID_ARTICLE_AD_1--\u003e\u003c!--PARAGRAPH_1--\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e而在本地年轻人会光顾的小酒馆，一份包含了12瓶啤酒、大份六格拼盘小吃的3-4人套餐也只要95元，比\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_6--\u003e海伦司\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_6--\u003e还要更性价比。不过酒味有多少，仁者见仁智者见智。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e当然，县城的商业配套越来越丰富的反面，也有不完美的里子。夏天在北京时，花五六十元就能轻易买到想吃的黑森林蛋糕，但在县城，她说只能尝到20元的山寨产品，口味一言难尽。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e一位在陕西神木一家私企做了十年文案策划工作的辣小哥，每月到手工资七八千，属于当地有钱有闲的群体。在大城市旅游时，她最爱吃港记甜品，喜欢在可休闲的甜品店小坐，但在县城，她说只能在小烘焙店买完糕点就拎包走人，“县城蛋糕店的氛围就不适合逛”。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e在她们看来，县城正处于区域品牌和外来一线品牌、合力重新装点老家门面的时间点。而逢年过节、从一线城市返乡的年轻人，既能看到奈雪、瑞幸、\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_7--\u003e蜜雪冰城\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_7--\u003e，甚至星巴克、海底捞这类下沉的大品牌，也能看到在一线城市几乎没啥知名度的品牌。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e在人们看来，这些品牌本质是一线城市业态在县城的\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e低配版复制\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e\u003cbr/\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; line-height: 1.75em; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 20px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(198, 102, 39)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e#02\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; line-height: 1.75em; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 20px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(198, 102, 39)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e繁华的县城新商业背后，有被套牢的创业人\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e在过去两年，县城消费力被热烈吹捧。在这些所谓低配版连锁品牌的背后，有不少是一群返乡创业的青年人。他们怀着梦回乡，但真正实操起来，才发现“县城贵妇”没了踪影，只剩自己一人在裸泳。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e在福建一个临海城市开有一家连锁轻食店的95后创业者明日，今年已经负债10万。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e创业之前，明日是独立摄影师，此前花10万在安徽老家阜阳开有一家工作室，由于生意不稳定，用她自己的话说，“自由且贫穷”。前几年受疫情影响，这家工作室不到一年就关闭，明日开始另谋出路。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e一次偶然的机会，明日认识了合伙人小帅，两人一起在这个东南异乡，加盟了蔓味轻食，这个品牌只做外卖。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e品牌官网显示，公司总部位于重庆，2017年创立，主营菜品有减脂沙拉、意大利面、三明治卷等，模式以加盟为主。从公开信息来看，这个品牌一二三线城市都有布局。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e明日当时想，低价轻食套餐正是流行时，符合消费者又要健康、又要性价比的大趋势，应该值得一闯。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e去年七月，明日开始筹备开店，九月正式开店，首批进货5万元。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e了解到这家品牌在全国已经开了200多家门店，但还没进驻福建，于是两人还额外花了20万搞到了区域总代，再加上各类成本，一共投入了40万。明日希望未来能赚下一级加盟商的钱。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e加盟之前，品牌方给明日算了一本账，轻食套餐客单价20元一份，利润在50%到60%左右，每个月淡季能盈利1万元，旺季能盈利3万元。按照这个计算方法，明日觉得3年就能回本。如果算上加盟费的话，每个月还能多赚2万元。 \u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e然而，等到真正开店，明日才发现根据小地方的物价水平，每单只能定价在17到18元之间，扣除人工水电、推广宣传费用，纯利润也仅有30%，而且可能由于蔓味轻食这个品牌知名度不算高，导致明日和小帅这个区域总代也并没有赚到多少加盟费。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; text-align: right" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c!--IMG_3--\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 12px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(178, 178, 178)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e图 | 明日开的蔓味轻食外卖店\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e创业后，明日和小帅每天早六晚十，无休息日，但赚到的钱扣除成本后，竟然都不如去上个班。过去，明日还能借助自由摄影师的身份到处旅游，可创业期间除了守店，什么都做不了。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e更令明日难受的是，支撑了快一年后，外卖平台为了走量，调整了运营活动，明日的蔓味轻食只能降低单价，一单降到13-14元左右，刨除投流、返点、抽成等成本，基本已经没办法抵消水电成本了。最终，明日的前期投入基本上打了水漂，只得关店。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e复盘自己创业失败的原因，明日归咎为自己对于行业的认知不够，感觉加盟是被割了韭菜。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e和明日一样，95后创业者心兰也在迫不及待地要转让刚刚加盟半年的小零大食门店，她直言：“有人想要接手的话，我现在就能转给他。”\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e心兰家在重庆县城某镇，创业之前，她在镇上做代课美术老师，没有编制，到手工资只有3000多。由于学生减少，学校解聘了部分教师岗位，经历这次裁员后，心兰萌生了创业的想法。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e起初，心兰盯上的加盟商是好想来、零食很忙这些大品牌，但要加盟，需要砸钱。比如加盟零食很忙，光是设备就需要20多万，首批货也是20多万，再加上其他各种费用，累计上百万，而利润却仅在18%左右。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e由于成本太高，心兰本打算放弃创业，可恰在此时，她在小红书上刷到了花5、6万就能在县城开零食店的帖子，并选择了小零大食这个总部位于长沙的品牌。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e品牌方称，小零大食不需要加盟费，利润在20%左右。首批拿货3万即可，服务费也只需要3万，货架3万，房租5万，再加上杂七杂八的成本，心兰最终花20万开出了两家门店，面积80平方米，她和外公外婆负责打理店铺，省下了人工成本。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e店铺开起来后，每天营业额都超过一千元，节假日能卖两三千元，也抢走了周围超市的顾客。根据心兰的计算，如果正常经营，一年即可回本。但心兰的小零大食店没开多久，附近就开出了一家零食很忙，开始内卷。而小镇总共只有五六万人，且老年人居多，购买力偏弱，这样一来生意就不好做了。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; text-align: right" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c!--IMG_4--\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 12px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(178, 178, 178)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e图 | 心兰开的零食店，竞争激烈\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e心兰的瓶装饮料卖2.2元已经足够便宜，可零食很忙只卖1.8元，虽然也就差几毛钱，但对于县城青年而言，多家比价是看家本领。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e开店以来，心兰每天早上8点营业，晚上10点关门，唯一的娱乐活动是关门后和朋友们打麻将到11点半，然后反复开启连轴转的一天。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e店里每天上千元的销售额，净利润大概只有200元，还要扣除房租，基本不赚什么钱，然后自己还要被店铺套牢，心兰现在每天就很抑郁。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e虽然是两个个案，但像明日和心兰这种栽在连锁加盟店上的案例，在网上还有很多。即便县城贵妇再多，她们似乎也撑不起一条街上几个轻食店、几个零食店。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e繁华的县容县貌背后，是不涉水就容易看不清真相的复杂涂层。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e\u003cbr/\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; line-height: 1.75em; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 20px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(198, 102, 39)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e#03\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; line-height: 1.75em; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; visibility: visible" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 20px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(198, 102, 39)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: transparent"\u003e县城不好待，但路有千万条\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e这一两年，县城成了消费领域的热词。肯德基、华莱士、正新鸡排、\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_BEGIN_8--\u003e绝味食品\u003c!--SECURE_LINK_END_8--\u003e、蜜雪冰城和瑞幸咖啡等6家品牌，在中国开满万店，进入next level。这当中，在县城的布局功不可没。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e县城叙事也吸引了尾随在大牌其后、一些新品牌的注意。与以往传统品牌是“从高线城市下沉”的发展路径不同，这类新品牌的逻辑是“至少先瞄向非一线城市的下沉市场”，有条件的“先下沉，再上到一线城市”，比如零食界的赵一鸣，从江西宜春起家，最近开到了北京。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c!--MID_AD_2--\u003e\u003c!--EOP_2--\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c!--MID_ARTICLE_AD_2--\u003e\u003c!--PARAGRAPH_2--\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e然而，这些叙事就是中国县城的全貌吗？并不是。中国的县城经济发展十分复杂，存在区域不平衡，人口、经济资源要素发展程度相差大等多种结构性问题。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e据中郡县域经济研究所的发布，‌2024年中国百强县市居民的平均月收入为5770元。如果全国县城一平均，收入可能会走弱许多。中国最富裕的县城——浙江义乌，人均可支配收入8.4万元，但在内陆，县城的年均人收入可能只有义乌一个零头。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e有的县城赶上了经济转型的快车，但也有县城正走在空心化的边缘。对于县城创业者，卡位就变得十分关键——需要选择一个有发展前途的县城，此外还包括地段与入场时间点。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e县城也不是只有加盟致富这一条路径，还有一些自力更生、走出自己路的青年人，\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e本质还是要回到商业逻辑中来\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e80后一位叫“拾光”的青年，从事电脑运营工作10多年后，在山东即墨开启了民宿、咖啡创业，并将咖啡店取名拾光，反而赚得还不错。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e创业之初，瑞幸等这类咖啡品牌刚刚起步，拾光反而“躲过了”加盟，现在回想起来，拾光很庆幸自己没有成为被割的韭菜。根据拾光的观察，家附近后来开的CoCo奶茶店维持了两年就倒闭，据说加盟商每年房租就要40万，不知道最后赔了多少。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e拾光的创业也并非一帆风顺，咖啡馆也是熬到第五年才开始赚钱，此前一直靠民宿赚钱补贴。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e起初，咖啡馆的房租、设备、人工等成本累计花费五十万，此后每年都需要十多万，包括房租6万，原材料6万，人工每年7万。后来，为了减少人力成本，拾光不再招人，自己一个人既当咖啡师，又当服务员，并朝九晚九地运营店铺。以前还能每年出国旅游，自从经营咖啡店以来，跨省旅游都成为了奢望，好在生意还算红火，每年利润在20万左右。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c!--MID_AD_3--\u003e\u003c!--EOP_3--\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c!--MID_ARTICLE_AD_3--\u003e\u003c!--PARAGRAPH_3--\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e拾光的咖啡馆附近也有瑞幸、库迪，但与这两家咖啡相比，拾光咖啡的价钱要高出一倍左右，一杯柿柿如意35元，一杯桂花拿铁28元，一块提拉米苏35元，单价基本都在20＋。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e但拾光完全无惧价格战，他很自信地说，“我们的受众是需要咖啡的牛马，他们对咖啡的口味很挑剔，而且我们的店铺也满足了用户需要的第三空间”。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; text-align: right" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c!--IMG_5--\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 12px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(178, 178, 178)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e图 | 拾光咖啡店，价格比瑞幸和库迪还高\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e现在拾光最大的烦恼是，开咖啡店之前，他觉得这是无忧无虑的理想生活，但现实却是咖啡馆将他困住，没有太多时间感受县城的惬意，想离开都做不到。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e像拾光这样的人似乎还有不少。这是另一层次的讨论，即县城的物质越来越丰富，但人们并非就像外界所想的那样，每天躺平，反而青年一代开始追求起县城有态度的活法。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e在平顶山的夏天，没想过要去加盟什么店，她给自己设定的县城活法是走直播带货路线，以前她在北京时做过央视广告销售、银联商务等，有一些积累。现在她的某社群已经涨到了2000多粉丝，没有接到广告，但卖出了一双拖鞋，虽然小得可以忽略，但这双拖鞋给了她一点儿能量。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c!--MID_AD_4--\u003e\u003c!--EOP_4--\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c!--MID_ARTICLE_AD_4--\u003e\u003c!--PARAGRAPH_4--\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e而在陕西神木的辣小哥，虽然有钱有闲，但她说，虚度光阴已经成了她最大的烦恼。每次她去大城市旅游，看见那些有拼劲、有激情的同龄人还是会羡慕，她还是有所感染。\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px"\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.5px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 15px"\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"\u003e\u003cspan style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255)"\u003e现在她在做一些副业，接中小企业的演讲项目，运营小红书等，她自嘲道：“每个人大概都会羡慕自己没有的生活状态。”\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr/\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003csection style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); letter-spacing: 0.544px; line-height: 1.75em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; text-wrap-style: initial" data-exeditor-arbitrary-box="wrap"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.544px"\u003e\u003cspan style="font-size: 13px"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style="color: rgb(84, 84, 84)"\u003e- END-\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003cspan style="letter-spacing: 0.578px"\u003e\u003cbr/\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\u003c/section\u003e\u003cstyle\u003e.data_color_scheme_dark{--weui-BTN-ACTIVE-MASK: rgba(255, 255, 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#EFB600;--weui-YELLOW-BG-110: #F0BD19;--weui-YELLOW-BG-130: #F3CC4D;--weui-YELLOW-BG-90: #D7A400;--weui-FG-HALF: #000000;--weui-RED: #DC3636;--weui-ORANGERED: #D14730;--weui-ORANGE: #E17719;--weui-YELLOW: #BB8E00;--weui-GREEN: #4F8400;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #2E8800;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #06AE56;--weui-BRAND: #018942;--weui-BLUE: #007DBB;--weui-INDIGO: #0075E2;--weui-PURPLE: #6265F1;--weui-LINK: #576B95;--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: #E17719;--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: #06AE56;--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: #007DBB;--weui-REDORANGE: #D14730;--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(0, 0, 0, .5);--weui-WHITE: #FFFFFF;--weui-BG: #FFFFFF;--weui-FG: #000;--weui-FG-5: rgba(0, 0, 0, .05);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(225, 119, 25, .1);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(0, 125, 187, .1);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(0, 0, 0, .05)}}@media screen and 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